Solidoodle 3 First Printing

After setting up the printer using Solidoodle’s settings for Repetier , I proceeded to level the build platform, test its flatness, and proceed to the first test print.  The platform was found to be about 0.04″ (~1mm) out of level.  Once leveled, one corner is about 0.005″ (~0.1mm) low, and the middle of the platform is high by 0.009″ (~0.2mm) making the bed slightly convex but within an acceptable tolerances if printing the first layer with 0.3mm.  

This print job went as well as can be expected for not having tuned anything beyond the stock values.  In fact, we will be using it with a couple classes of 3D design students this week!  However, the plastic is not sticking very well to the supplied polyimide tape even after cleaning with acetone and isopropyl alcohol (our Solidoodle 2 has been working like a charm with the original polyimide tape since last fall).  This does not matter much as I will soon be installing a removable glass plate with it’s own polyimide tape for printing (should be flatter at least).

First Test Print - four connected letters for CTLT, and the print shows a bulging near the bottom of the print but is pretty good otherwise.

This entry was posted in @UR, Printing. Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Solidoodle 3 First Printing

  1. crzycrzy says:

    To adjust the bed height you used the 2.5 mm allen key, did you cut a bit of the tape away… cut it and fold back,,,,, what was your technique for getting at the bolt heads ?

    • Fred says:

      I avoided moving the tape by wrenching down on the exposed threads of the screws from underneath. This isn’t agood long-term approach since it wears the threads from the plier jaws. I could get soft-jaw pliers, but that would still be cumbersome so affixing thumb screws is the way to go – such as .

  2. crzycrzy says:

    But sadly you need a running printer to make it 🙁 Since I plan to go the glass route, guess I’ll cut away.

    • Fred says:

      Although not pretty, my first solution for this on my SD2 was to take m4 wing nuts and put two on each screw. If you put them facing away from each other, you can adjust the screw in each direction using the opposite wing nut since it locks into the other one. The problem is that there is not a lot of room to work with on the m4 screws so I had to use a 4″ grinder to grind down the height of the wing nuts’ wings so they would fit. If I was to do that again, I’d just put on one m4 wingnut or get oversized English wing nuts (since they are more easily obtained in US hardware stores) and put a dab of hot glue on the end before shoving it up the crew. This only works if your adjustment screws are not too difficult to turn.

Comments are closed.